The Emirates

No, not the airline. That would have been nice. I was flying Royal Brunei, whose fleet of 767s haven't had a decor or entertainment system upgrade since the 80's (Free Willy played on a wall 20 rows away by a projector the size of a suitcase).

My concerns about excess baggage turned out to be unfounded. My bike wouldn't fit on the scales at check in, so it went through unweighed.

I arrived in Dubai after midnight, Thursday morning, assembled my bike, talked cricket with some indian airport workers after they saw my New Zealand flag, and got a few hours sleep on the airport seats. I wanted to try and get to the Dubai branch of Bank Melli (Iran's largest bank), open an account to resolve my cash problem, then make it to the 11am sailing to Iran.

Riding from the airport to the Bank was no problem. Not too hot in the early morning, and traffic heavy but manageable. I was there when they opened.

But it is not possible to open an account without a residence permit, I am informed by the customer service agent. I explain what I am trying to do. You need ATM access? Yes! But it is not possible to have an ATM card without an account. It is not possible to open an account without....Yeah, yeah, I know, a residence permit. I check at Bank Saderat Iran accross the road, but it's the same deal. I ask whether it is possible to change travellers cheques: No Problem. No problem changing travellers cheques? No. No problem. At main branches or any bank? Any Bank. What types of travellers cheques? Many kinds. American Express? No. Only Iranian Cheques.

The banks don't sell the cheques, I have to wait for an exchange shop to open. I change a large portion of my money, to get cash down to the level insurance covers. First I have to change US$ to UAE dirham, then dirham to Iranian rial. It means I lose some on the double transaction, but it's worth it for the security of travellers cheques. He sits the cheques on the counter. I count them. It doesn't make sense. The calculations are in toman but the notes are in rial (I'll explain later). I count again, and he explains the calculations. It's right. Where do I sign the cheques? No need to sign the cheques. So when I change the cheques how do they know they are mine? No problem, just like cash. So if they get stolen or lost? Just like....Right, just like cash.


Sharjar: Sitting on the grass in the shade was too hot

Well, that was great. Looks like the cash problem is unresolvable. But it's only 9:30 and I can still make todays ferry. I have to cross the river to get to the ticket office. Through a tunnel. Going into the tunnel, there's a stormwater grate with gaping slots. I make it across, and look out for the one at the exit. I see it, but I'm going too fast. I find out that you can't bunny hop a bike with a trailer. My back wheel drops into the slot and hits hard. There's scraping metal and the bike goes everywhere. I think the trailer is wrecked. It's only a flat tyre. And dinted rim. I change the tyre fast and can still make it to the ferry. The office is only for cargo, not passengers. Stupid internet. I have to go to a travel agent back on the other side of the river. I might still make the ferry. I walk across the grates on the way back through the tunnel, but I still get a flat tyre coming out. Changing the tyre will be faster if I don't unhitch the trailer fully. Bad idea. With the wheel loosened, the trailer load goes onto the quick release skewer and bends it. I manage to bend it back without snapping it. There would have been no replacing it. It's a very Zen and the Art moment. There will be no more rushing on this trip. I won't make the ferry.

At the travel agent I discover there is no Thursday ferry. Stupid internet. The ferry goes weekly on a Sunday. From Sharjar, not Dubai. Never heard of it? Well it's a whole different Emirate.

The rest of the day was spent getting a new tyre. Fortunately, the 40 bike shops listed in the Dubai Yellow Pages are all on the same block. Because I had to go to all of them to find a tyre for my bike. Turns out it's not a popular size here. The old tyre was torn by the stormwater grate, which explained the repeat puncture.

Friday, I rode the 20km to Sharjar in the heat of the afternoon, just to try it out, and because nothing was open anyway and hotel checkout wasn't until 1pm. It was no problem.

I spent Saturday in Sharjar finding the ferry terminal and killing time. Sunday, onto the boat.

The real Sharjar: If it's not under a building it's dust.